Mason’s Grill proves burgers, other dishes rate praise

• By CYNTHIA V. CAMPBELL
• Restaurant reviewer
• Published: May 22, 2009

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Baton Rouge is fortunate to have a number of neighborhood restaurants where the food would be considered gourmet quality in many  countries. One such place is Mason’s Grill, the Jefferson Highway eatery that resembles an old-fashioned roadhouse. 

On our first visit, we chose the pan-fried crab cakes ($8.25) as a starter. Absolutely delicious, the two large cakes were packed with fresh, sweet crabmeat, which contrasted nicely with the crunchy exterior. A piquant Creole mustard sauce was drizzled over the cakes and a garnish of diced tomatoes kicked up the flavor a notch. 

Another starter, blackened chicken quesadilla ($8.95), was a surprise. Tender bites of spicy blackened chicken, onions, diced tomatoes, jalapenos and melted jack cheese were encased in crisp flour tortillas. The triangles were accompanied with fresh, medium-hot salsa, pico de gallo, sour cream and shredded lettuce.

Since house specialties include many seafood dishes, the seafood platter combo ($21.95) gave us a chance to try several items. By the way, the platter is heaped with food and can easily serve two. We were impressed with the excellent  grilled tilapia filet accented with Creole seasoning. Batter covering the shrimp, oysters and catfish was lightly seasoned and just the right texture. The dish comes with a cup of thick and creamy crawfish etouffee, which was a bit bland, but was just fine when we added a little hot sauce. The fries were typical (crisp and tender), but the teardrop- shaped hush puppies were over-fried and disappointing.

Mason’s also serves blockbuster smokehouse barbecue. The half rack of ribs and brisket combo ($18.95), cooked slowly over hickory wood, is a smoky delight. Drenched in a sweet, thick barbecue sauce, similar to Memphis-style barbecue, the pork fell off the bone. The thin brisket slices were tender with almost no fat. We also enjoyed the side of French green beans sautéed until just tender.

The entrees came with a dinner salad of crispy mixed greens, cucumbers, tomato, grated carrots and red onion. We highly recommend the house dressing, a creamy raspberry vinaigrette. The raspberry taste dominates and there’s an excellent balance of flavors.
A second visit confirmed our impression. Mason’s is a blue-ribbon restaurant in anyone’s book.

 Our mission was to try Mason’s innovative spicy Cajun shrimp burger ($10.95). It was  recently selected by the Food Network Magazine as Louisiana’s best in  an article titled “Best Burgers in the Country,”  one for each U.S. state. The thick, lean ground meat patty, stuffed with jalapenos, was grilled medium-well as requested and topped with a pile of tender grilled shrimp, melted jack cheese and more jalapenos. The bun was soft and tender, yet sturdy enough not to fall apart. However, this is a “big”  burger, so don’t feel embarrassed to eat it with a knife and fork. A side of delicious, large onion rings, encrusted with crispy batter added the final touch.

A simple chargrilled chopped steak ($9.95) was a succulent treat. The large, lean beef patty was topped with a generous amount of rich, dark brown gravy packed with sautéed onions, bell peppers and mushrooms. Combined with a fully-loaded baked potato (cheddar cheese, diced bacon, green onions and butter), this was a satisfying meal indeed. Instead of a dinner salad, we tried the coleslaw prepared with a sweetened mayonnaise-based dressing.

Mason’s is not in the least pretentious. It obviously appeals to all ages. We saw moms and dads sharing burgers and fries with their kids; couples having an evening out, and singles obviously enjoying their meals. The spacious bar area in back is neatly set up for serving patrons interested in watching sports while they dine. Service is exceptionally friendly and efficient.