Train offers scenic route, alternative to flying

• By STEVE WHEELER
• Advocate WHEELS editor
• Published: Apr 26, 2009

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If flight delays, weather issues and the general hassle of airports hold no attraction, and time is not critical to your travels, it might be a good idea to slow down and take the scenic route.

That’s what our family decided to do in the fall when my speech therapist daughters had a convention to attend in Chicago. Now 22 years old, our twins have no trouble inviting mom and dad along on their trips, and they say it has nothing to do with us picking up the tab for meals.

A flight from Baton Rouge Metropolitan Airport through Atlanta to Chicago will get you to the Windy City faster, but it’s not the same as riding “The City of New Orleans” through America’s heartland. The train trip is about 18 hours, but half of that is spent in slumber if you spring for a sleeper car.

The rest of the time is spent visiting with fellow passengers, dining, drinking or simply watching lazily as America goes by at 75 mph instead of 550.

Boarding The City of New Orleans at 3 p.m. in Hammond as it began the trek north, Terry, our porter, was friendly and helpful to first-timers as the more seasoned train travelers climbed into the Superliner. When you’re climbing on board, don’t dawdle; the train stops for only about 3 minutes as you toss luggage into racks downstairs on the double-decked sleeper car.

On our trip, the train ran right on time, leaving Hammond in the afternoon and arriving at Chicago’s beautiful Union Station about 9 a.m. the next day.

The regular bedroom in the sleeper car is basically two seats facing each other in a small room with a large window. The seats fold down to make a bunk, and a second bunk lowers from the wall above.

The deluxe room has a double bed fold-out and a bunk that lowers from the wall, in addition to a toilet, sink and shower. The all-in-one bathroom, however, is not a lot bigger than those in the back of passenger jets.

Sleeper car passengers are considered first-class fares, and meals are included. A coach ticket, however, includes a seat and not much else.

The dining and lounge car is usually placed near the sleeper car, and the food is not bad. Someone even compared the dining experience to that of a cruise ship. Not in my book. It’s not even close. The food is cooked off the train and reheated on board. But if you get a friendly server, the dining experience is not bad at all.

The dining car is on the top deck, and big picture windows line the car so diners can take in the view as the countryside speeds by. The train whistle sounds at every railroad crossing along the way, whining out its warning to motorists as passengers try to figure the best way to stretch out in the coach cars.

As darkness falls, the City of New Orleans pushes north through Mississippi and parallels Interstate 55 toward Memphis.

You’ll either love or hate sleeping on a train. Some say the constant rocking and the plaintive wail of the whistle is like a sleeping pill. For others, it has the opposite effect.